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    <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/?sAtom=1" rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" />
    <author>
        <name>DistrEbution GmbH</name>
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    <title>Blog/Atom feed</title>
    <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/?sRss=1</id>
    <updated>2026-04-26T18:54:10+02:00</updated>
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Do candles expire?</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/do-candles-expire</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/do-candles-expire"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            Do candles go off? Shelf life &amp; storage explained.
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            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                  Most people have candles somewhere at home that have been sitting there for a while. At some point, the question arises: do they actually go off? Candles do not spoil in the true sense of the word, but they do lose quality over time. After 12 to 18 months, scented candles may lose their fragrance or discolour, whilst plain wax candles can begin to burn less well. Stored in dry, cool, and dark conditions, however, most candles remain usable for years. Find out exactly what happens and how to recognise it in this article.  
  At a Glance  
 
  Quality deterioration:  Fragrance oils evaporate or change over time, which can cause the candle to smell rancid or lose its scent almost entirely 
  Visual changes:  Candles can fade, yellow, or gather dust, particularly when stored in the light 
  Burn performance:  Older candles often burn less well, flicker, or are difficult to light 
  Storage:  Kept at 15–20 °C, in the dark and dry, candles remain usable for years 
  Recommended usage period:  scented candles 12–18 months, unscented up to several years 
  The wax type determines storage stability  – this applies to finished candles just as much as to raw materials 
 
  How Long Do Candles Last?  
  How long a candle lasts depends primarily on what wax it is made from. Paraffin is a very stable mineral wax that barely oxidises – an unscented paraffin candle can last several years when stored correctly, sometimes even decades. Plant-based waxes such as soy or rapeseed are more sensitive: they react more strongly to temperature fluctuations and light, and the fragrance oil bound within them evaporates more quickly.  
 
 
 
 
 
  Candle Type  
 
 
  Recommended Usage Period  
 
 
  Key Limitation  
 
 
 
     
 
 
 
  Paraffin candle, unscented  
 
 
  Several years, often indefinitely  
 
 
  May yellow slightly under UV light  
 
 
 
 
  Scented candle (paraffin)  
 
 
  2–3 years  
 
 
  Fragrance fades; synthetic scents last longer  
 
 
 
 
  Scented candle (soy wax)  
 
 
  12–18 months  
 
 
  Soy is more sensitive to light and temperature  
 
 
 
 
  Beeswax candle  
 
 
  2–5 years  
 
 
  Natural bloom possible, does not affect quality  
 
 
 
 
  Tea lights (paraffin)  
 
 
  3–5 years  
 
 
  Wick may become brittle with long storage  
 
 
 
 
  Tea lights (natural wax / scented)  
 
 
  1–2 years  
 
 
  Scent evaporates; wax may smell rancid  
 
 
 
 
  How Can You Tell If a Candle Has Expired?  
  Three things reveal whether a candle is still good: colour, scent, and burn performance. As long as no more than one of these has deteriorated noticeably, the candle can generally still be lit – even if the scent is weaker and the flame burns less steadily than it once did.  
 
 
  Colour  
 
 
  Has the candle lost its colour, faded, or has the surface turned yellow or brown? This is a sign that the dye or wax has reacted. A slight yellowing of pale candles due to UV light is normal and harmless. Strong discolouration points to poor storage conditions.  
 
 
  Scent  
 
 
  Does the candle no longer smell, or does it smell different from before? Has the fragrance separated from the wax – meaning the wax itself no longer smells, even though the candle was once strongly scented? This is a clear sign that the fragrance oil has evaporated or oxidised. If the wax smells rancid, the candle should be disposed of.  
 
 
  Burn Performance  
 
 
  Lighting the candle reveals its true condition. A flame that stays very small, sputters, or repeatedly goes out is a sign of a clogged wick. Changes to the fragrance oil and wax can cause residues to build up on the wick, preventing it from burning properly. If that is the case, it is time to replace the candle or melt down the wax for reuse.  
  Do Tea Lights Go Off?  
  Paraffin tea lights without added fragrance last a very long time when stored in dry, cool conditions – often 3 to 5 years without any noticeable decline in quality. Paraffin itself barely oxidises. The critical point is the    wick   : after very long storage, it can become brittle, absorb moisture, or shift within the wax, leading to an uneven burn.  
  Scented tea lights or those made from natural waxes are more sensitive. The scent fades noticeably after 1 to 2 years, and plant-based waxes can soften at the surface or show discolouration when exposed to temperature fluctuations.  
  Do Scented Candles Expire?  
  Scented candles do not expire in the traditional sense. But the fragrance oil slowly evaporates through the surface of the wax and oxidises over time. The cold throw – how the candle smells when unlit – is usually the first thing to fade. The hot throw during burning lasts a little longer.  
  Natural fragrance oils and essential oils are less stable than synthetic fragrance compositions. Anyone making or buying candles with essential oils in soy wax should bear this in mind when planning: this combination is particularly high quality, but also the shortest-lived.  
  How to Store Candles Correctly  
  Storage often has more influence over shelf life than the candle itself. Following these five points will get significantly more out of your candles:  
 
  Cool and dry:  Ideally below 25 °C, without temperature fluctuations. Cellars, drawers, or closed cupboards are all well suited. 
  Away from light:  UV light degrades both colour and scent. Avoid storing candles on windowsills or under spotlights. 
  Covered:  Keep scented candles covered after opening or during long storage – a lid or box slows the evaporation of the fragrance oil. 
  Lying down or standing up?  Taper candles and pillar candles are best stored lying flat to prevent warping. Container candles in glass should stand upright. 
     Not in the bathroom or kitchen:    Moisture and steam can damage the wick and affect the wax.    
 
  Summary  
  Candles do not go off the way food does, but they do change. Scent, colour, and burn performance all diminish over time – how quickly depends on the wax and the storage conditions. Scented candles made from natural waxes are the most sensitive and should ideally be used within 12 to 18 months. Paraffin and beeswax last considerably longer.  
  Anyone looking to actively extend the shelf life of their candles should store them cool, dark, and dry.&amp;nbsp;  
      Our    fragrance-retaining additive    significantly slows the evaporation of fragrance oil from the wax and is useful for anyone storing or selling candles over a longer period. Against colour fading caused by light, our    UV stabiliser    is the right choice.      
 
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            </content>

                            <updated>2026-03-10T08:00:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Soy Wax: Everything You Need to Know for Candle Making</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/soy-wax-everything-you-need-to-know-for-candle-making</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/soy-wax-everything-you-need-to-know-for-candle-making"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            Soy wax has become one of the most popular sustainable wax alternatives. Find out what it involves and how to work with it.
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            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                  Soy wax has become one of the most popular candle waxes in recent years. Primarily because of its natural origin, its excellent fragrance retention, and its biodegradability. This article explains what soy wax is, how it is produced, which types are available, and what to bear in mind when working with it.  
  At a Glance  
 
 Made from hydrogenated soya oil – plant-based, vegan, and biodegradable 
 Ideal for container candles in jars – not suitable for freestanding pillar candles (not drip-resistant) 
 Typically holds 6–10 % fragrance oil depending on the scent – particularly well suited for scented candles 
 Burns slowly, evenly, and with minimal soot 
 Available as pure soy wax (C-3) or as a blend with palm wax (C-1) 
 
  What Is Soy Wax?  
  Soy wax is a white to pale beige,   plant-based wax   with a naturally pleasant, almost neutral scent. It is entirely plant-based, vegan, and 100% biodegradable.  
  Soy wax is produced primarily in the United States, where the majority of global soya production takes place. As a renewable raw material, it is an alternative to paraffin, which is a petroleum-derived product and is not biodegradable. In addition to pure soy wax, there are also blends with other natural waxes – for example with coconut or palm wax – which improve certain properties such as structural stability or texture.  
  How Is Soy Wax Made?  
  The starting material is   soya oil  , pressed from soya beans. Through hydrogenation, a chemical process in which hydrogen is introduced into the oil under pressure, the unsaturated fatty acids in the oil are converted into saturated ones. This causes the oil to solidify and take on its wax-like consistency.  
  Depending on the degree of hydrogenation and further processing, different types are produced: from soft container waxes with a low melting point to firmer variants for freestanding candles. The exact composition varies by manufacturer and production line.  
  Soy Wax Types Compared  
   We stock a range of soy wax types that differ in composition, melting point, and intended use. For scented candles in jars,    NatureWax® C-3    is the most popular choice. The key differences at a glance:   
 
 
 
 
 
  Type  
 
 
  Composition  
 
 
  Form  
 
 
  Suitable for  
 
 
  Key feature  
 
 
 
       
 
 
 
   NatureWax® C-3   
 
 
  100% soya (USA)  
 
 
  Flakes &amp;amp; pastilles  
 
 
  Container candles, jars, tea lights  
 
 
  Bestseller – excellent glass adhesion, melting point 51–54 °C  
 
 
 
 
   DistrEco Soy Wax   
 
 
  100% soya, paraffin-free  
 
 
  Flakes  
 
 
  Container candles, also as an additive  
 
 
  Own brand, plastic-free packaging, melting point 51–54 °C  
 
 
 
 
   NatureWax® C-1   
 
 
  Soya + palm wax (max. 30%)  
 
 
  Flakes  
 
 
  Container candles, wax melts  
 
 
  Releases from glass edge, minimal fat bloom, melting point 51–55 °C  
 
 
 
 
   NatureWax® C-310   
 
 
  100% soya (EU, GMO-free)  
 
 
  Pastilles  
 
 
  Container candles  
 
 
  European grown, vegan, drop point 51–55 °C  
 
 
 
 
   Kerasoy 4120   
 
 
  Natural soy wax blend  
 
 
  Pastilles  
 
 
  Pillar candles, freestanding  
 
 
  The only soy wax for freestanding candles, melting point approx. 60 °C  
 
 
 
 
   Golden Wax 464   
 
 
  100% plant-based, GMO-free, paraffin-free  
 
 
  Pastilles  
 
 
  Container candles, tea lights, wax melts  
 
 
  Silky-matt finish, strong scent throw, melting point approx. 46 °C  
 
 
 
 
   Golden Wax Y50   
 
 
  Soya base  
 
 
  Pastilles  
 
 
  Wax blends  
 
 
  Ideal as a base for custom wax blends  
 
 
 
 
  Advantages and Disadvantages of Soy Wax  
  Soy wax&#039;s greatest strengths   lie in its    sustainability  and  fragrance retention   : it is plant-based, vegan, and biodegradable, burns slowly and with minimal soot, and can typically hold 6–10% fragrance oil depending on the scent. For container candles in jars, it is therefore one of the best options available.  
  Its limitations become apparent with freestanding candles: soy wax is too soft for pillar candles or taper candles and is sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Frosting – white streaks on the surface – can occur, particularly with dark colours. It does not affect burn performance, but is noticeable visually. For silicone moulds, a harder wax is usually needed as an additive.  
  Soy Wax vs. Paraffin – Which Is Better?  
  The choice between soy wax and paraffin depends on the intended use. Soy wax has a significantly better fragrance retention and releases scent more slowly and evenly – a decisive advantage for scented candles in jars. Paraffin is more structurally stable, less expensive, and better suited to freestanding candles such as taper or pillar candles.  
  The two waxes can also be blended: a combination of soy wax and paraffin brings together the fragrance retention of soy wax and the structural stability of paraffin. For a purely natural approach,    rapeseed wax    is also worth considering – grown regionally, biodegradable, and equally well suited for scented candles.  
  A full comparison of all candle waxes – paraffin, stearin, beeswax, rapeseed wax, and more – can be found in our article    What Is Candle Wax Made Of? All Wax Types at a Glance   .  
  Working with Soy Wax: Tips and Notes  
  Melting and Pouring  
  Soy wax is best melted in a water bath, bringing the temperature up steadily to 55–65 °C. Avoid stirring too vigorously – air bubbles introduced during stirring can show up later as holes or uneven surfaces in the finished candle. Add fragrance oils at around 55 °C and stir in gently. For more precise figures, refer to the individual product page.  
  Before pouring, ensure that the jars or tins are not too cold – they should be at room temperature at minimum. Pouring slowly and tapping the container gently on the work surface afterwards will help reduce any remaining air bubbles.  
  Cooling  
  Allow soy wax candles to cool slowly and evenly – do not place them in the fridge or take them outside into the cold. Cooling too quickly leads to cracks, uneven surfaces, and poor glass adhesion. Ideally, allow candles to cool at room temperature away from draughts.  
  Frosting  
  When cooled correctly and poured at the right temperature, soy wax produces little to no fat bloom (known as frosting or fat blooming) – a common phenomenon with pure natural waxes. With darker colours, the surface should be watched more closely, as frosting is more visually apparent. The burn performance of the candle is not affected by frosting.  
  First Burn  
  On the first burn, allow the candle to burn until the wax has melted fully to the edge of the jar. This prevents tunnelling and ensures the candle burns evenly afterwards. As a rule of thumb: approximately one hour per 2–3 cm of jar diameter. A wick that is too thin will not achieve this – wax residue will then always remain around the edge.  
  Note on Silicone Moulds and Pillar Candles  
  Pure soy wax is not drip-resistant and is therefore not suitable for freestanding pillar candles. For candles made in silicone moulds, a harder wax is usually required as an additive – for example a small proportion of    stearin   .  
  Frequently Asked Questions about Soy Wax  
  What is soy wax?  
  Soy wax is a plant-based wax made from hydrogenated soya oil. It is biodegradable, vegan, and has a melting point of approximately 46–54 °C. It is used primarily for container candles and scented candles, as it absorbs fragrance oils well and releases them slowly.  
  At what temperature do you pour soy wax?  
  Soy wax is ideally poured at 55–65 °C. Fragrance oils should be added at around 55 °C before pouring the wax into the containers. Jars should be at room temperature, not too cold.  
  What is the difference between soy wax and paraffin?  
  Soy wax is plant-based, biodegradable, and has an excellent fragrance retention. Paraffin is a mineral wax derived from petroleum – more rigid and less expensive, but not biodegradable. For scented container candles, soy wax is the better choice; for freestanding candles, paraffin is more stable.  
  Is soy wax suitable for pillar candles?  
  Most soy waxes are too soft for freestanding pillar candles. An exception is the    Kerasoy 4120   , which has been developed specifically for freestanding candles and is more structurally stable. All other soy waxes in our range are intended for candles in jars or containers.  
  What are the disadvantages of soy wax?  
  The main disadvantages are its soft consistency (not suitable for freestanding candles), sensitivity to temperature fluctuations, potential frosting with dark colours, and a slightly higher price compared to paraffin. With the right technique, most of these points can be managed well.  
  Summary  
  Soy wax is a versatile and sustainable choice for candle making, particularly for scented candles in jars. Its excellent fragrance retention, low-soot burn, and biodegradability make it the preferred base for many candle makers.  
    Those who want to try it out for the first time will find everything they need to pour their first candles in our    DIY Soy Wax Box   . All soy wax types mentioned here are available in our    soy wax range   .    
 
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2026-03-09T09:45:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">What Is Candle Wax Made Of? All Wax Types at a Glance</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/what-is-candle-wax-made-of-all-wax-types-at-a-glance</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/what-is-candle-wax-made-of-all-wax-types-at-a-glance"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            What Is Candle Wax Made Of? All Wax Types at a Glance.
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            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 Not all candle wax is created equal. Paraffin, stearin, beeswax, rapeseed wax, soy wax – each type has different properties, a different origin, and is suited to different applications. This article explains what the most important candle waxes are made from, how they are produced, and which wax works best for which purpose. 
 At a Glance 
 
 Candle wax melts above 40 °C and is solid at room temperature 
 The most important wax types: paraffin, stearin, beeswax, rapeseed wax, soy wax 
 Paraffin is the most widely used candle wax in the world – inexpensive and odour-neutral 
 Natural waxes such as rapeseed wax and soy wax are biodegradable 
 Many candles are made from blends – stearin and paraffin are frequently combined 
 
  What Is Candle Wax?  
  Wax is a substance that begins to melt above 40 °C and has a solid, waxy consistency at room temperature. The exact point at which the   melting point   is reached depends on the wax type and its composition – it can be as low as 40 °C or exceed 100 °C. As wax softens, it becomes stickier and then quickly turns liquid, much like an oil at room temperature.  
  Candle wax is   not water-soluble  , but dissolves readily in organic solvents. Waxes can be of   animal, vegetable, or mineral origin  , and even within a single wax type the exact composition varies depending on the manufacturer and production process.  
  The Most Important Candle Waxes at a Glance  
 
 
 
 
 
  Wax Type  
 
 
  Origin  
 
 
  Melting Point  
 
 
  Key Properties  
 
 
  Typical Use  
 
 
 
       
 
 
 
  Paraffin  
 
 
  Petroleum (mineral)  
 
 
  46–68 °C  
 
 
  Odour-neutral, inexpensive, easy to work with  
 
 
  Taper candles, tea lights, container candles  
 
 
 
 
  Stearin  
 
 
  Palm oil (vegetable)  
 
 
  52–65 °C  
 
 
  Hard, brittle, makes candles appear whiter  
 
 
  Taper candles, blends with paraffin  
 
 
 
 
  Beeswax  
 
 
  Bees (animal)  
 
 
  62–65 °C  
 
 
  Natural scent, golden yellow, rare  
 
 
  Premium candles, church candles  
 
 
 
 
  Rapeseed wax  
 
 
  Rapeseed oil (vegetable)  
 
 
  57–61 °C  
 
 
  Regionally sourced, biodegradable  
 
 
  Pillar and taper candles  
 
 
 
 
  Soy wax  
 
 
  Soybean oil (vegetable)  
 
 
  46–54 °C  
 
 
  Soft, good fragrance throw, slow-burning  
 
 
  Scented and container candles  
 
 
 
 
  Olive wax  
 
 
  Olive oil (vegetable)  
 
 
  approx. 62 °C  
 
 
  Creamy texture, subtle natural scent  
 
 
  Pillar candles, container candles  
 
 
 
 
 
  Paraffin Wax  
  Paraffin is a by-product of petroleum refining. It is refined, hydrogenated, and purified – a key part of the process involves reducing the oil content as much as possible and eliminating any odour. The result is a white, odour-neutral wax that is straightforward to work with.  
  Paraffin wax is the most widely used candle wax in the world – not only for candles, but also in cosmetic, medical, and technical applications. It is inexpensive, easy to shape, and available in a wide range of melting points, from soft to hard. Depending on the solidification point, it is suitable for freestanding taper candles or for container candles.  
  Available from us as    paraffin pastilles (56–58 °C)    and as    paraffin wax slabs (58–60 °C)   .  
  Stearin (Stearic Acid)  
  Stearin is made from fatty acids – primarily palmitic acid and stearic acid – derived from palm oil. It is considerably harder than paraffin but also more brittle. One notable advantage: stearin makes candles appear whiter and, depending on the type, forms crystalline structures on the surface.  
  Stearin and paraffin are frequently blended together to combine the best of both: the dimensional stability of stearin with the workability of paraffin. Stearin is biodegradable in the long term – not compostable in the short term, but unlike paraffin it is not a purely mineral oil product.  
  Available in our shop as    Stearic Acid 1802 in flakes   .  
  Note on Blending  
  Stearin and paraffin are often used together to make candles more stable and brighter in appearance. Pure beeswax should not be blended with stearin or paraffin, as doing so alters the natural character of the beeswax.  
  Beeswax  
  Beeswax is one of the oldest and most well-known candle waxes. Bees produce it in wax glands and use it to build their honeycomb. In its natural state beeswax is white – the characteristic golden-yellow colour develops through contact with pollen and honey. Scent and colour vary depending on origin: different plants bloom in different countries, so every beeswax has its own distinct aroma.  
  Due to limited availability, beeswax is more expensive than other wax types. It has been used since antiquity for candles, seals, and food preservation, and is still regarded today as a premium natural product. Beyond candles, beeswax is also used for beeswax wraps, cosmetics, and food coatings.  
  Available in our online shop as    Beeswax RAL yellow in pastilles   .  
  Rapeseed Wax  
  Rapeseed wax is derived from rapeseed oil, which is grown predominantly in Germany and across Europe. It is fully biodegradable, burns with very little soot, and has excellent fragrance retention. Rapeseed wax is considered a sustainable alternative to paraffin, with the added benefit of regional provenance.  
  Working with rapeseed wax requires a little care: it adheres well in containers but is more sensitive to temperature fluctuations than paraffin – cracks or an uneven surface can occur more easily if the wax cools too quickly.  
  Available from us as    Rapeseed Wax 5761 in pastilles   .  
  Soy Wax  
  Soy wax is made from hydrogenated soybean oil. It is soft, adheres well in containers, and has an excellent capacity to absorb and slowly release fragrance oils – a significant advantage for scented candles. Soy wax burns slowly and evenly and is biodegradable.  
  Its soft consistency makes soy wax less suitable for freestanding candles – it tends to dent in warm conditions and is less dimensionally stable than paraffin or stearin. For container candles and scented candles in glass, however, it is an excellent choice.  
  Available from us as    Soy Wax Flakes NatureWax® C-3   .  
  Olive Wax  
  Olive wax is derived from olive oil and is less common than other natural waxes. We stock two distinct olive wax products, suited to different candle types.  
   EcoOlive    is a 100% natural blend based predominantly on olive wax, with a melting point of approx. 62 °C. It is designed for pillar candles, votive candles, and other freestanding candles, producing a smooth surface with a subtle sheen and excellent fragrance throw. Free from paraffin and animal-derived ingredients.  
   Sunflower-Olive Wax NatureWax® C-3S    is developed for container candles. It consists mainly of sunflower wax with a small proportion of olive wax, has a dropping point of 38–47 °C, and gives candles a creamy appearance. A good European-made alternative to soy wax.  
  Which Candle Wax Is Right for Which Purpose?  
  The choice of wax depends above all on the type of candle. Freestanding taper candles require a harder wax with a higher melting point – paraffin 58/60, stearin, or beeswax all work well. Container candles call for softer waxes with good adhesion: soy wax, rapeseed wax, or specialist container waxes based on paraffin.  
  For scented candles, a wax with good fragrance retention is the best choice – soy wax can hold up to 10% fragrance oil, as can rapeseed wax. Paraffin binds fragrance oils less readily, but tends to release them more evenly during burning.  
  Dip dye candles and outer-coat applications require a specialist    dipping wax    with a higher melting point that produces a hard, smooth outer layer. A full guide to this technique is available in our article    How to Make Dip Dye Candles   .  
  Frequently Asked Questions about Candle Wax  
  What is candle wax made of?  
  Candle wax is made from different base materials depending on the type: paraffin is derived from petroleum, stearin from vegetable fats, and beeswax is produced by bees. Natural waxes such as rapeseed wax or soy wax come from plant-based oils. Many candles are made from blends of several wax types.  
  What is the difference between paraffin and stearin?  
  Paraffin is a mineral wax from petroleum refining – inexpensive, odour-neutral, and easy to work with. Stearin is made from fatty acids, usually from palm oil, and is considerably harder and more brittle. It makes candles appear whiter and extends burn time. The two are frequently blended to make the most of both materials.  
  Which candle wax is the most eco-friendly?  
  Rapeseed wax is considered a particularly sustainable choice, as it is sourced from regionally grown rapeseed and is fully biodegradable. Soy wax and beeswax are also natural alternatives. Paraffin is a mineral oil product and is not biodegradable – but it burns cleanly and with very little soot when refined to a high standard.  
  Which candle wax is suitable for container candles?  
  Soft waxes with a lower melting point that adhere well to glass are best suited to container candles: soy wax, rapeseed wax, or specialist container waxes based on paraffin. Hard waxes such as stearin or dipping wax are less suitable for container candles, as they tend to pull away from the glass as they cool.  
  Conclusion  
  Not all candle wax is created equal – the choice of wax determines burn behaviour, appearance, and suitability for a given candle type. Paraffin remains the most widely used wax for its versatility and reliability. Natural waxes such as rapeseed and soy wax are growing in popularity, particularly in DIY candle making and scented candles. Beeswax remains the premium option among candle waxes.  
    All the wax types featured here are available in our    candle wax range   .    
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2026-03-02T10:30:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">How to Make Dip Dye Candles: A Guide to Even Colour Gradients</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/how-to-make-dip-dye-candles-a-guide-to-even-colour-gradients</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/how-to-make-dip-dye-candles-a-guide-to-even-colour-gradients"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            How to Make Dip Dye Candles: A Guide to Even Colour Gradients.
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 Dip dye candles are made by dipping taper candles into coloured, liquid dipping wax. The wax settles as an even layer on the candle, producing clearly defined colour zones or soft gradients. This guide explains which materials you need, how the technique works step by step, and which mistakes can be avoided from the outset. 
  At a Glance  
 
 Taper candles are dipped in coloured dipping wax ( Tudastar 2311 pastilles ) – not in water 
 Once set, the dipping wax forms a hard, smooth colour layer on the candle 
 Colour gradients are achieved by dipping multiple times at decreasing depths 
 Suitable for taper candles made from  rapeseed wax 5761  or  paraffin 58/60  
 
  What Are Dip Dye Candles?  
  &quot;Dip dye&quot; means   dip dyeing  . With dip dye candles, taper candles are dipped into liquid, coloured wax that forms a coloured outer layer. Depending on the dipping depth and number of passes, the result is either   clearly defined colour zones   or   soft gradients   from one colour to another.  
   What makes this technique distinctive    is that the dipping wax has a higher melting point than standard candle wax. It produces a harder, smoother surface than melted candle remnants and is easier to work with precisely. This makes the technique particularly well suited to consistent, repeatable production.  
  What You Need  
  Before you begin, prepare the following:  
 
 Taper candles made from  Rapeseed Wax 5761  or  Paraffin 58/60  
  Dipping Wax Tudastar 2311  
  Neon Candle Dyes (Series 2501)  or  Base Dyes (Series 2803)  
 Tall, narrow jars or tins (one per colour) 
 Pot for the water bath 
 Thermometer 
 Wooden stick for stirring 
 Baking paper as a base 
 Somewhere to hang the candles by the wick 
 
  How to Make Dip Dye Candles: Step by Step  
  Once all materials are to hand, you are ready to start.  
  1. Prepare the Dipping Wax  
  Fill the dipping wax into tall, narrow jars or tins.    Use a separate container for each colour.    Place the vessels in a pot of water and heat the water bath until the dipping wax has melted completely. The water should be just below boiling point but not boiling. Tall, narrow containers have the advantage of allowing the candle to be submerged more deeply. Do not fill the containers to the brim, as the wax will be displaced when the candle is dipped.  
  2. Add the Dye  
  Add the candle dye to the liquid dipping wax at   approx. 75 °C   and stir it in fully. For vivid, saturated colours, we recommend the    Neon Candle Dyes (Series 2501   ). These contain pigments that distribute particularly well in dipping wax. The dosage is a maximum of 1%. For pastel shades, the    Base Dyes (Series 2803   ) are suitable at a maximum of 0.2%. Our dyes are highly concentrated – start with 2–3 pastilles and adjust as needed.  
  Pro Tip: Mixing Colours  
  The dyes can be mixed with one another to create custom shades. Add a base colour to the wax first, then add the second colour gradually until you reach the desired tone. Stir the wax thoroughly before each dipping pass to prevent the colour from settling.  
  3. Dip the Candles  
  Hold the taper candle by the wick and dip it swiftly into the coloured dipping wax. The candle should only remain in the wax briefly – the dipping wax sets quickly once the candle is exposed to air. Allow the candle to cure after each pass before dipping again or changing colour.  
  Pro Tip: Achieving Colour Gradients  
  For a colour gradient, dip the candle deeply on the first pass. On the second pass, dip it less far – this creates a lighter zone in the upper area where only one layer sits. With each further pass at a decreasing depth, the gradient becomes softer. For a   two-colour gradient  , work with two separate dye baths in succession: colour A from the bottom first, then colour B from the other side.  
  4. Allow to Drip and Set  
  Allow the freshly dipped candle to drip briefly over the container. Then hang it by the wick or place it on baking paper. The dipping wax sets quickly – usually within a few minutes. For multiple layers, wait until the previous layer has set completely before dipping again.  
  5. Allow Sufficient Curing Time  
  Leave the finished dip dye candles to cure completely at room temperature. The more layers applied, the longer this takes – allow 1–3 hours. Do not dry the candles near heat sources, as heat can damage the colour layer.  
  Which Colour Combinations Work Well for Dip Dye Candles?  
  The easiest starting point is two shades that sit close together – pink and old rose, for example, or light blue and teal. For a third zone, white works well as a transition between them: light blue, white, and teal creates an almost natural gradient. For more contrast, terracotta and cream or black and white also work well.  
   Worth bearing in mind:    colours look more intense in liquid wax than after setting. On coloured candles, the base colour may show through slightly.  
  Common Mistakes – and How to Avoid Them  
 
 
  The colour layer cracks or breaks:   The dipping wax was too hot or the candle too cold. Make sure the wax has cooled to approx. 75–80 °C before dipping. If the candle is very cold, allow it to come to room temperature first.  
 
 
  The colour is uneven or patchy:   The wax was not stirred thoroughly or had already cooled. Stir the wax before each pass and keep it at a steady temperature in the water bath.  
 
 
  The colour layer is too thick:   Left in the wax too long, or too many layers applied at once. Dip the candle briefly and allow each layer to set completely before applying the next.  
 
 
   The colour appears too pale on the candle:    Too little dye in the wax. Increase the amount gradually, but do not exceed the maximum dosages (neon dyes 1%, base dyes 0.2%). Colours often appear stronger in liquid wax than after setting.  
 
 
   The candle deforms:    The dipping wax was too hot. Check the temperature with a thermometer and work at approx. 75–80 °C.  
 
 
  Frequently Asked Questions about Dip Dye Candles  
  What are dip dye candles?  
  Dip dye candles are taper candles given a coloured outer layer by dipping them in liquid, coloured dipping wax. The result is either clearly defined colour zones or soft colour gradients, depending on the dipping depth and number of passes. The technique works equally well for white and coloured taper candles.  
  Which wax is suitable for dip dye candles?  
  For dip dye candles, we recommend a specialist dipping wax, such as our Dipping Wax Tudastar 2311. It has a higher melting point than standard candle wax and forms a hard, smooth surface once set. Standard candle wax is too soft for this technique and will not produce an even layer.  
  Which dye is suitable for dip dye candles?  
  For vivid, saturated colours, the Neon Candle Dyes (Series 2501) are the right choice. They are pigment-based and distribute evenly in dipping wax. Important: neon dyes should not be mixed directly into candle wax, as the pigments can clog the wick. For pastel shades, our Base Dyes (Series 2803) are the better option.  
  What is the dip-dye method?  
  With the dip-dye method, taper candles are briefly dipped in liquid, coloured dipping wax. The wax settles as an even layer on the candle and produces a coloured surface once set. By dipping multiple times at decreasing depths, colour gradients are created. The method differs from    dip marbling   , in which candle dye is applied to water and produces organic marble patterns rather than clearly defined colour zones.  
  Conclusion: Dip Dye Candles Are Simple to Produce  
  With the right materials, dip dye candles can be made quickly and consistently. The key difference from simpler methods using candle remnants lies in the dipping wax: Tudastar 2311 produces a harder, more even surface and takes colour precisely.  
  Different colours, dipping depths, and numbers of layers allow for individual designs – from strong single-colour finishes to soft multi-colour gradients. All the products you need for this guide are available in our shop.  
  Share your results on Instagram and tag    @distrebution_gmbh   . We look forward to seeing what you create.  
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2026-03-02T09:15:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Marbling Candles Made Easy: How to Achieve the Marble Effect</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/marbling-candles-made-easy-how-to-achieve-the-marble-effect</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/marbling-candles-made-easy-how-to-achieve-the-marble-effect"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            Marbling Candles Made Easy: How to Achieve the Marble Effect.
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                  No two marbled patterns are alike and that is precisely what makes this technique interesting. With dip marbling, candle dye melts on hot water and transfers as a thin film onto the surface when the candle is dipped. This guide explains how to marble candles, what to bear in mind, and which mistakes can be avoided from the outset.  
  At a Glance  
 
 Candle dye melts on water heated to approx. 80 °C and forms a thin colour film on the water&#039;s surface 
 When the candle is dipped, this film transfers directly onto the candle&#039;s surface 
 Suitable for smooth candles made from rapeseed wax or paraffin wax 
 Each candle is unique. No pattern can be replicated exactly. 
 
  What You Need  
  Before you begin, prepare the following:  
 
  Candles made from Rapeseed Wax 5761  or  Paraffin 58/60  
  Candle Dyes  
 Deep pot or heat-resistant vessel 
 Thermometer 
 Disposable gloves 
 Optional: string to tie to the wick 
 Somewhere to hang the candles, or baking paper as a base 
 Wooden stick for stirring 
 Washable surface covering 
 
  Step by Step: Marbling Candles  
  Once all materials are to hand, you are ready to start.  
 1. Prepare Your Workspace 
    Lay out a   washable surface   covering and put on   disposable gloves  . Tie a   length of string   to the wick of each candle. This allows you to hang the candles after dipping so they dry evenly. Spread   baking paper   underneath, as excess dye will drip. The   vessel   should be deep enough to submerge the candle fully. Use one that will not be used for food afterwards, as dye residue can be difficult to remove completely depending on the material.    
   2. Heat the Water 
      Heat the water to approx. 80 °C  , but do not allow it to boil. At this temperature, the candle dye melts cleanly and spreads as an even film across the water&#039;s surface. If the water is too cold, the dye will not melt fully. If the temperature is too high, the candle&#039;s surface may go hazy or deform slightly.      
   3.&amp;nbsp; Add the Candle Dye 
  Add only a few pastilles to the water. Our candle dyes are highly concentrated and go a long way. Wait until the pastilles begin to melt, then stir gently with a   wooden stick.   This draws the dye out into a very thin film, from which the marble pattern forms when the candle is dipped.  
  Pro Tip: Two-Colour Effects  
  For   high-contrast patterns  , it is advisable to work with two separate dye baths: dip first into colour A and allow to cool briefly, then into colour B. This keeps each colour vivid. Anyone adding both colours to the water at the same time must work quickly. In their liquid state the colours blend rapidly, making a murky result difficult to avoid.  
  A dye bath can be used for several dipping rounds as long as the colour film on the surface is still visible. After a few candles, the colour thins out and the pattern weakens. Simply add further pastilles as needed. As the water cools over time, check the temperature regularly and reheat if necessary. Change the water once the dye turns cloudy or settles at the bottom.  
  &amp;nbsp;4.&amp;nbsp; Dip the Candle 
  Hold the candle by the wick and guide it slowly through the colour film on the surface. Rotate the candle slightly on its axis as you lower or lift it. This causes the colour film to wrap around the candle in a spiral. You can also dip only the lower half or one side.  
 5. Leave to Dry 
  Hang the marbled candles or place them on baking paper. Leave them to dry completely at room temperature. Depending on the amount of dye applied, this takes 2–4 hours. Do not dry near heat sources, as heat can damage the colour layer.  
  Common Mistakes – and How to Avoid Them  
 
 
   The colours blend completely:    Over-stirred, or too long left before dipping. Dip shortly after the dye has melted and stir as little as possible.  
 
 
  The marble effect is barely visible:   Too little dye or water too cold. Check the temperature and add more pastilles.  
 
 
  The candle deforms:   Water was too hot. Monitor the temperature using a thermometer.  
 
 
   The pattern looks uneven:    Dye not fully melted, or water disturbed. Wait until the dye has melted completely, then dip steadily.  
 
 
   The dye does not adhere evenly:    Candle surface is greasy, damp, dusty, or has been touched. Do not handle the candles before dipping and store them in a dry, clean place.  
 
 
  Frequently Asked Questions about Marbling Candles  
  How do you marble candles?  
  The simplest method is dip marbling in a water bath. Candle dye melts on the water&#039;s surface and transfers as a thin film directly onto the candle when dipped. Particularly clean results are achieved with smooth candles made from rapeseed wax or paraffin wax.  
  Which dye is suitable for marbling candles?  
  For dip marbling, we recommend highly concentrated candle dyes in pastille form. These melt cleanly in the water bath, spread evenly as a colour film, and bond well with the wax surface. A small number of pastilles are sufficient for several dipping rounds. An overview of all available colours can be found in our candle dyes category.  
  How can I colour candles – are there alternatives to marbling?  
  Dip marbling only affects the surface of the candle. Those wishing to colour candles fully and evenly should add candle dye directly to the molten wax. A further alternative is the    dip-dye technique   , which produces clearly defined bands of colour rather than organic marble patterns.  
  Conclusion: Marbling Candles Is Simple to Implement  
  Marbling candles is a simple and effective method for giving plain candles an individual character. With the right temperature, quality candle dye, and a willingness to experiment, distinctive designs can be achieved.  
  Different colour combinations allow for seasonal designs, product lines, or individual collections. All the products you need for this guide – from candle dyes to rapeseed wax and paraffin wax – are available in our shop.  
    Share your results on Instagram and tag    @distrebution_gmbh   . We look forward to seeing what you create.    
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2026-03-02T08:00:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Candle Making – a Guide to High-Quality Candle Production</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/candle-making-a-guide-to-high-quality-candle-production</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/candle-making-a-guide-to-high-quality-candle-production"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            What do you really need to make candles yourself? And what matters when it comes to wax, wick and temperature? Here you will find a structured guide to candle making.
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                  Candle making is creative and versatile. Using different types of wax, colours, fragrances and wicks, you can produce candles that suit your style, quality standards and product range.  
  Whether you want to make candles yourself, develop DIY-style candles or build your own candle collection, the   basic steps of candle production   always remain the same: melting the wax, incorporating colour and fragrance, fixing the wick, pouring and allowing the candle to cure.  
  In this guide, you will learn which materials you actually need for candle making and how to melt and process wax correctly. You will also become familiar with typical mistakes in candle pouring, so that you can avoid them from the outset and consistently produce high-quality candles.  
  High-quality    products for candle making    are available in our shop. In the respective product descriptions, you will find important information such as melting point, processing temperature and recommended dosage.  
  At a glance  
 
 
   To pour candles yourself, you mainly need the right materials:    a suitable wax, the correct wick size, a clean water bath and patience during curing.  
 
 
   The basic steps of candle making always remain the same:    melt the wax, incorporate colour and fragrance, fix the wick, pour, allow to rest.  
 
 
  Typical issues   such as sinkholes, air bubbles or unstable flames can be avoided by using the correct temperature, wick selection and pouring technique.  
 
 
  What do I need to make candles?  
  To process candle wax cleanly and in a controlled manner, you will need some basic tools and raw materials.  
  The foundation is a water bath:   a pot with hot water and a heat-resistant melting container made of glass or stainless steel, placed in or suspended over the water. In this setup, the wax melts slowly and evenly until it is completely liquid and can later be poured cleanly into a container or mould.  
  Tip:   Stir occasionally to dissolve any lumps and keep the temperature stable.  
  A   wax thermometer   is essential. Each type of wax has its own melting point and also a flash point. To ensure that colour and fragrance mix well later on and that you can work safely, the wax should not be heated more than necessary.  
  Before you start, you should also know   how much wax   you need for your candles. This quantity is crucial for the later dosing of colour and fragrance oil. In the product descriptions in our shop, you will find information on recommended dosages and suitable temperature ranges for each colour and fragrance oil.  
  Choosing the correct wick size also plays a central role in candle making. It depends both on the container diameter and on the type of wax used. In our    wick category   , you will find various wicks, including    candle wicks   ,    tealight wicks    and    flame bowl wicks   , which are used depending on the candle type.  
  Once everything is prepared, you can start making candles straight away.  
  In brief: materials required for candle making  
  Alongside other    candle accessories   , you will find these materials clearly organised in our shop, allowing you to select everything for your candle making in one place and in a coordinated way.  
  Prepare the following materials:  
 
  Candle wax  
 Pot + water bath 
 Melting container 
 Wax thermometer 
 Stirring spoon 
  Wick centring device  
  Wicks  (cotton or wood) 
  Candle jars  or  candle moulds  
  Candle dyes or lacquers  (optional) 
  Candle fragrance oils  (optional) 
 Decorative elements such as dried flowers (optional) 
 
  The choice of the right wax  
  The choice of wax influences not only appearance and fragrance, but also wick selection, pouring temperature and the subsequent burn behaviour. All of the    candle waxes    mentioned are available, along with other variants, in our shop.  
 
 
   Soy wax C-3    is optimised for  container candles , particularly in glass. It is characterised by good fragrance binding and a smooth, even surface.  
 
 
   Rapeseed wax 5761    is often used for  free-standing, delicate natural wax candles  poured into  silicone moulds . It provides a stable structure and a calm burn.  
 
 
   Paraffin wax    with a  higher melting point  (e.g. 58–60 °C) is well suited for  pillar candles , as it cures with good shape stability and allows for clean edges.  
 
 
   Rapeseed–coconut wax Elite 600    is well suited for  natural tealights  as well as for  scented candles in glass , as it processes evenly and enables a stable burn behaviour.  
 
 
   Beeswax    is characterised by a  very long burn time  and a  distinctive natural scent . It is particularly suitable for  natural, untreated candles .  
 
 
 &amp;nbsp; 
   By the way: leftover wax can be reused brilliantly.  Simply pop the candle jar into the freezer for about an hour – the wax will contract and can then be broken out with ease. Melt it down and pour it through a fine sieve to remove any wick residue and impurities. Try to mix only the same types of wax where possible, and always use a fresh  wick  – old wicks no longer burn evenly once they&#039;ve been used.  
 &amp;nbsp; 
  How much wax do I need for a candle?  
  Before you start making candles, it is helpful to know how much wax you need. This allows you to dose colour and fragrance accurately later on.  
  Proceed as follows:  
 
 
  Place your candle jar on a set of scales.  
 
 
  Fill the jar with water up to the height your candle should later reach.  
 
 
  Read the weight of the water in grams and subtract 10% (weight × 0.9).  
 
 
  → The result corresponds to the    approximate amount of wax    you should plan for this container.  
  Tip:   If you want to use fragrance oil, subtract the planned fragrance amount from the calculated wax weight.  
   Good to know:    This method is also suitable for silicone moulds. Make sure that jars and moulds are completely dry before pouring.  
  In this video, we explain it using an example: (English subtitles available)  
    
   &amp;nbsp;   
  Step-by-step guide: making candles yourself  
  Once your materials are prepared, you can begin candle making.  
  Work calmly and in a controlled manner, as many issues arise from excessive temperatures or working too quickly. A structured process helps you reliably reproduce results and maintain consistent candle quality over multiple batches.  
 
 
  Prepare the water bath  
 
 
  Fill a pot with water and heat it on the hob. The water should be hot but not boiling. Place a   heat-resistant melting container   (e.g. a second pot, a metal ladle or a stainless steel melting jug) in or over the pot of water and add the wax to this container.  
  The   water bath   ensures that the wax   melts evenly and in a controlled way  , without being exposed directly to the heat source. This allows better temperature control and helps prevent overheating. Double-walled pots from chocolate processing are also suitable for wax. Temperature-controlled appliances such as the Thermomix can also be used.  
 
 
  Melt the wax  
 
 
  Add the required amount of wax to the melting container. Stir occasionally to dissolve any lumps and distribute the heat evenly. Always keep an eye on the temperature and remain below the flash point.  
  The correct processing temperature depends on the specific wax. Soy wax is often processed at around 60–70 °C, while paraffin is usually processed at higher temperatures. Exact ranges can be found in the product descriptions for the individual wax types.  
 
 
  Incorporate colour and fragrance oil  
 
 
  First stir the    candle dye    into the fully melted wax, then add the    fragrance oil   . Work slowly and evenly so that both additives combine well. Dyes need some time to dissolve completely. Fragrance oil should be incorporated at the temperature recommended for the respective wax so that it remains stably bound in the wax.  
  Tip:   If fragrance oil is overheated, it can partially evaporate. The candle will then smell noticeably weaker than expected. Therefore, add the fragrance oil only after the colour has fully dissolved and shortly before pouring, and do not heat the wax strongly or for extended periods afterwards. When making scented candles, observe the recommended dosages. Too much fragrance oil can negatively affect burn behaviour and lead to an unstable or flickering flame. Excessively high temperatures also impair fragrance binding and can cause bubbles or an uneven surface.  
 
 
  Insert the wick  
 
 
  Fix the wick centrally in the jar or mould. Use a    wick holder    or    candle wick stickers    to secure the wick to the base of the jar.  
  Tip:   The straighter it is positioned, the more evenly the candle will burn later. Make sure that the wick sits firmly against the bottom of the container.  
 
 
  Pour the candle  
 
 
  Pour the liquid wax slowly into the container or mould. Make sure that the wick does not shift. The calmer you pour, the fewer air bubbles will form. How full you fill the container is up to you. Many leave a small margin at the top, while others fill to just below the rim.  
  Tip:   Set aside a small amount of wax for topping up later. If a slight depression forms during cooling, you can compensate for it afterwards.  
 
 
  Allow the candle to cool  
 
 
  Leave the candle to cure completely for   at least 24 hours   in a calm, room-temperature environment. Draughts, cold surfaces or direct heat from radiators can affect the surface.  
  Some waxes – especially soy and rapeseed wax – only develop their fragrance optimally after a short curing period of several days.  
  Your candle is now finished and provides a foundation on which more complex designs, colour layers or consistent fragrance combinations can be built.  
 &amp;nbsp; 
  Avoiding mistakes – common pitfalls in candle pouring  
  Even with careful work, minor irregularities can occur when pouring candles. Most of these are related to temperature, pouring technique or the coordination of wax, wick and additives, and can be well controlled with a little experience.  
  An overview of the most common pitfalls:  
 
 
   Sinkholes:    Caused by wax shrinking as it cools → targeted topping up evens out the surface.  
 
 
  Air bubbles:   Caused by pouring too quickly or cold containers → slow pouring and gently pre-warmed jars help.  
 
 
  Frosting in soy wax:   A natural, crystalline appearance → can be reduced by maintaining constant room temperatures and adjusted pouring temperatures.  
 
 
   Unstable or flickering flame:    Usually a sign of an unsuitable wick size or excessively high fragrance or colour dosage.  
 
 
  Understanding these relationships allows you to control candle quality deliberately and achieve reproducible results.  
  Correctly dosing colour and fragrance  
  Candle dyes   are highly concentrated and should always be   dosed sparingly  . Start with a small amount and increase gradually if necessary until the desired colour shade is achieved. This keeps the wax stable and the surface even.  
   Fragrance oils    are generally dosed at around 6–10% relative to the wax amount in candle making. The exact amount depends on the wax type and fragrance intensity. Excessive dosages can negatively affect burn behaviour, surface quality and flame stability.  
  Creative ideas for your candle range  
  Once you have mastered the basics of candle making, numerous opportunities open up to further develop your candle range in a targeted way. Colours, shapes, wicks and fragrances can be combined to create not only individual candles, but also   coherent series, themed lines or seasonal collections  .  
  Whether minimalist container candles, scented candles for different seasons, layered candles with colour gradients or candles with wooden wicks – creative ideas help differentiate your offering and create recognisable designs.  
  Working safely when making candles  
  Although candle making appears straightforward, it involves working with hot wax and elevated temperatures. Make sure that your water bath is stable, no moisture enters the wax and that you can control the temperature at all times. Wax should never be heated unattended.  
  Burning wax must never be extinguished with water. Switch off the heat source and smother the fire with a lid or a fire blanket. Then allow everything to cool completely.  
  A calm workflow and a clean, well-organised workspace contribute significantly to safe and reproducible results.  
  Conclusion  
  With the right technique, candle making is not a complicated undertaking, but a well-structured and predictable process.  
  Whether you are taking your first steps or want to build your own product range, this guide provides a solid foundation. Suitable    products for candle making    are always available in our shop, so that your candles turn out exactly as you envision them.  
 &amp;nbsp; 
  Frequently asked questions  
  Here you will find answers to questions that regularly arise in candle making.  
  How much fragrance oil may I use?  
  The recommended fragrance oil amount is often between around 6–10% relative to the wax amount, depending on the wax and fragrance strength. Start with a lower dosage and test different values, as too much fragrance oil can negatively affect burn behaviour and the surface of your candles.  
  Which wax is suitable for scented candles?  
  Soy and rapeseed wax bind fragrance particularly evenly and are therefore well suited for scented candles. Paraffin highlights colours more strongly and produces very smooth surfaces.  
  Which wick size do I need?  
  The appropriate wick size depends on the container diameter, wax type and fragrance and colour additives. A general specification is not possible; wick recommendations and test candles provide guidance.  
  Why does a dip form in the centre of the candle?  
  Wax shrinks as it cools. This can result in a slight depression in the centre. Targeted topping up evens out the surface.  
  How long does a candle need to cure?  
  Allow the candle to cure completely for at least 24 hours. Especially for scented candles made from soy or rapeseed wax, an additional curing period of several days significantly improves fragrance throw.  
  How can I avoid soot or flickering?  
  A more suitable wick size or a more restrained dosing of colour and fragrance often helps. Even pouring and clean working practices also contribute to a stable burn.  
 &amp;nbsp; 
  Mini glossary – key terms explained simply  
  Flash point  
  The temperature at which wax can ignite. This value should always be kept below during processing.  
  Melting point  
  The temperature at which the wax becomes liquid. It varies depending on the wax type.  
  Wick size  
  The thickness of the wick, matched to container diameter, wax type and additives. An incorrect wick size can lead to tunnelling, soot or an unstable flame.  
  Tunnelling  
  If the candle burns only in the centre and a rim remains, this is referred to as tunnelling. The wick is often too small.  
  Frosting  
  Natural, crystalline streaks in soy wax. Visually characteristic and harmless.  
  Curing time  
  The period after pouring during which wax and fragrance fully cure and bond stably. Particularly important for scented candles made from soy or rapeseed wax.  
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2025-12-17T12:45:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Can candles start sweating? </title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/can-candles-start-sweating</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/can-candles-start-sweating"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            Can candles sweat? And if so why and how can we prevent it? All that and more in this post!
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 Can candles sweat? 
 Whether you&#039;re a candle enthusiast or a professional candle maker, you&#039;ve probably noticed that your candles sometimes form beads of moisture on the surface. This phenomenon, known as “candle sweating”, may seem confusing at first glance. Why would a candle, a seemingly dry and solid object, start to sweat? 
 The reason lies in the expansion and contraction of the wax crystals, which can push the oil out of the wax body, making it visible on the surface. In this blog post, we&#039;ll look at the reasons for candle sweating, examine how it affects your candles and discuss how to prevent it. 
 Why do candles sweat? 
 There are many reasons why a candle may have moisture or liquid droplets on the surface. For one, there may simply be too much fragrance or essential oil mixed into the wax. The amount of fragrance or essential oil that a wax can absorb varies. 
 Secondly, perspiration may be a property of the wax itself. Many vegetable waxes, especially soy wax and coconut wax, are known to sweat. 
 Thirdly, this can also happen if the oil is added when the wax is too cold or if the wax/oil is not mixed properly. In this case, the wax and oil do not form a homogeneous mixture and the fragrance is distributed differently in the candle. 
 Finally, if you use fragrances/essential oils that are not suitable for candles, it is very likely that the oils will not mix properly with the wax components and insoluble particles will form. 
 NOTE: Sweating often does not affect the performance or quality of the candle. 
 How can sweating be avoided? 
  Reduce the amount of fragrance  
 For most of our waxes, we recommend limiting the amount of fragrance to 6-10%. Experimentation and testing are the key. 
   Use high-quality fragrance oils optimized for candles  
 For a first-class candle experience, it is important to use high-quality fragrance oils. The candle fragrances we offer have been specially developed and tested for use in candle making. 
  Try different waxes  
 Some natural waxes are prone to sweating, which is why you should try adding some kerosene wax. 
  Storing candles correctly  
 In general, we recommend storing your candles at a temperature of 18°C to 25°C in a dry place out of direct sunlight. 
 What to do if candles sweat? 
 Have you poured candles and noticed that they start to sweat as soon as they have cooled? You can use a heat gun to melt the wax again so that it cools with a smooth, oil-free surface. You can also mix your wax a little better and pour a thin layer on top. 
 If your candle continues to sweat, you can gently dab the surface of the candle with a paper towel to soak up the excess oil. 
 We hope these tips are helpful! Do you have any further questions? Send us an email at  support@distrebution.com  or send us a DM on Instagram! 
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2024-05-10T15:30:00+02:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">How to extend the life of a candle</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/how-to-extend-the-life-of-a-candle</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/how-to-extend-the-life-of-a-candle"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            How can you extend the life of a candle? We reveal the details here.
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 The key to preserving the freshness and quality of a candle lies in its storage. UV light destroys both the color and the fragrance. To store a candle correctly, the container must be tightly closed and protected from direct sunlight. This protects the wax and fragrance of the candle. 
 Extreme temperature fluctuations can change the molecular composition of the ingredients and, of course, the shape of your candle. If you store the candles at room temperature, their lifespan will be extended. 
 As a candle manufacturer, how can I ensure longevity in the production of candles? 
 There are a number of measures that can help to increase the lifespan of your candle. 
 
 When using wax, make sure you only use high-quality wax. Cheap kerosene waxes tend to turn yellow when exposed to sunlight. However, all kerosene wax turns slightly yellow when exposed to strong sunlight. UV stabilizers from our range help to slow down or completely prevent colour changes in high-quality waxes. 
 With wax, care should also be taken to use high-melting waxes for standing candles (e.g. kerosene wax 58-60°C or 60-62°C solidification point or rapeseed wax 57-61°C) in order to avoid changes in shape due to temperature fluctuations. 
 With natural waxes, care should be taken to use waxes made from so-called fully hardened oils wherever possible. These usually have a shelf life of 24 months or longer and are better protected against rancidity than waxes made from partially hardened oils. Natural waxes can also change color to more yellowish when exposed to sunlight (UV light). 
 With stearins, it is essential to use a suitable wick. Stearins are acids and these destroy cotton wicks that are not intended for stearin over time. It is then virtually impossible to burn such candles. It is therefore essential to choose wicks such as the SSD series from our range. 
 Good candle colors are dyes and not pigments in order to burn well over the wick and not clog the wick as pigments do. However, dyes lose some of their radiance when exposed to UV light.Our UV stabilizers help to maintain the colour intensity for longer. So-called pigment colors have even longer color stability - e.g. our 2501 series (neon).These colors can be incorporated very well into the Tudastar 2311 coating wax and candles can be dipped in them.They do not interfere with burning and form a great surface that does not fade as quickly as wax colors from solid-colored candles. 
 Synthetic fragrances are much more stable than natural fragrances. In addition, our fragrance retention additive helps to ensure that the fragrances do not evaporate quickly. This means that they retain their fragrance over longer periods of time and are still good to use and pretty to look at next season. 
 
 Contact us at  support@distrebution.com  if you have any further questions! 
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2024-02-16T16:30:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Why we should trim our candle&#039;s wick</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/why-we-should-trim-our-candle-s-wick</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/why-we-should-trim-our-candle-s-wick"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            It is very important to shorten the candle wick. Here we explain why.
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            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 Scented candles in containers or pillar candles - we all love to light candles and have many candle makers among us! However, the path to the perfect candle is not just about choosing the right wax or fragrance, but also about proper care, and this includes regularly trimming the wick. But why is it so important to trim the wick? 
 Less soot &amp;amp; smoke 
 Soot is released as a by-product of incomplete combustion when too much wax is drawn through the wick. This happens especially when the wick is too long (or too large). It manifests itself in small plumes of black smoke coming from the candle wick. This can leave marks on ceilings or other nearby surfaces. Your glass candles or tea lights in jars will probably have black spots on the inside near the wick or at the top. 
 Safe flame height 
 If the wick is not cut, the flame can become too large and flicker. Depending on where the candle is placed, this can increase the risk of fire. A flame that is too large also means that your candle will not burn properly. The candle flame develops too much heat and the candle wax melts faster. This means that the candle wax is consumed more quickly, i.e. the candle burns for a shorter time. 
 Continuous fragrance release 
 If the flame is too high, more heat is generated in the candle container. This additional heat causes the fragrance oils to evaporate more quickly, which can lead to a weaker fragrance release when your candle burns down later. So make sure that you shorten your wicks to around 6 mm after a few hours of burning, once the candle and wick have cooled down, in order to achieve optimum burning. 
 We hope these tips are helpful! Do you have any further questions? Send us an email at  support@distrebution.com  or send us a  DM on Instagram ! 
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2024-02-14T15:15:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Does your candle turn yellow over time?</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/does-your-candle-turn-yellow-over-time</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/does-your-candle-turn-yellow-over-time"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            Is your candle yellowing after a while? Here you will find the reasons for this and how you can avoid it.
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 Have you made a few scented candles for yourself or to sell in your store and noticed that they have yellowed after a while? Or the color you used faded after a while? There are several reasons why this can happen, so let&#039;s dive in. 
 Sunlight: 
 Sunlight, especially its ultraviolet (UV) component, can change the color of wax. The sunlight can break some of the bonds in the wax, creating new compounds that can have a yellowish tint. What to do? Store the candles in a cool, dark place. If you keep your candles away from direct sunlight and heat sources, you can prevent yellowing. Store them in a cool, dark place, e.g. in a cupboard or drawer, to minimize exposure to light. You can also add UV stabilizer. However, the UV stabilizer will only help if the cause of the discoloration is sunlight. 
 Fragrance: 
 The color of the fragrance itself can affect the color of your wax. Take this into account when choosing your fragrance. Citrus fragrances and vanillin-containing fragrances are known to discolor candles. If the fragrance does not mix well, this can also lead to discoloration. Add the fragrance at the correct temperature and stir gently for 2 to 3 minutes to ensure that the fragrance mixes properly with the wax. 
 Overheating the wax: 
 If you overheat your wax for an extended period of time, it will turn yellow. Make sure that you melt the wax below the specified temperature. Have you noticed that you have already overheated your wax and it is becoming increasingly yellow/darker? You can also add a little beige dye to counteract the yellow tint and achieve a more natural, uniform wax color. 
 If you have any further questions, please don&#039;t hesitate to email us at  support@distrebution.com ! 
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2024-02-02T18:15:00+01:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">How To Make Handcream // Natural Cosmetic DIY</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/how-to-make-handcream//natural-cosmetic-diy</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/how-to-make-handcream//natural-cosmetic-diy"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            We explain how you can make your own nourishing hand ointment with our shea and cocoa butter!
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 We explain how you can make your own nourishing handcream with our shea and cocoa butter! 
 Did you know that handcreams contain water? We don&#039;t use water, which is why these are actually hand ointments. 
 What you need: 
 
 Cocoa butter 
 shea butter 
 coconut oil 
 Almond/jojoba oil 
 Lavender fragrance 
 
 Also: water bath, hot air dryer, fireproof container 
 You can use shea butter or cocoa butter as desired. You can also replace the almond oil with jojoba or avocado oil. 
 You can also make a larger quantity using the following mixing ratio: 
 &amp;nbsp;50% cocoa/shea butter, 40% coconut oil, 10% almond/jojoba oil, 0.1% lavender fragrance 
 This is how it works: 
 Weigh the cocoa/shea butter together with the coconut oil and melt in a bain-marie while stirring. 
 Cocoa butter is a skin-friendly base for making creams and soaps, protects the skin and makes it soft and supple. Care should be taken to ensure that the cocoa butter is not heated too hot. Otherwise it cannot harden properly. 
 Shea butter has a moisturizing effect and is rich in vitamin E, among other things. The hand ointment with shea butter becomes softer. If you would like a firmer hand cream, you can add a small amount of cosmetic beeswax to both mixtures. Cosmetic beeswax provides a moisturizing &amp;amp; anti-inflammatory effect and is rich in vitamin A. 
 Next, add the almond/jojoba oil, remove the liquid mixture from the water bath from the stove and add 0.1% lavender fragrance. You can find out how many % of our fragrances you can use for which application in the IFRA documents on our product detail pages. 
 Once everything is well mixed, carefully pour it into glass jars and leave the ointments to harden for 24 hours. If you want it to harden faster, you can also put it in the fridge. Once the hand ointment has hardened, you can use it yourself or give it as a gift. It does take a while to absorb, but the skin feels wonderfully smooth afterwards. 
 You can find a video tutorial on our YouTube channel! 
 We want to see your creations! 
 Take a photo, post it on Instagram and tag us @distrebution_gmbh. 
 If you have any questions, please email us at support@distrebution.com! 
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2023-08-09T11:30:00+02:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
    
        <entry>
            <title type="text">Ice cream Candle in a jar with Soywax - Step by step guide</title>
            <id>https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/ice-cream-candle-in-a-jar-with-soywax-step-by-step-guide</id>
            <link href="https://www.distrebution.com/en/blog/ice-cream-candle-in-a-jar-with-soywax-step-by-step-guide"/>
            <summary type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                
                                            An easy to follow instruction on how to make ice cream dessert candles with soywax.
                                        ]]>
            </summary>
            <content type="html">
                <![CDATA[
                 Here you can learn how to make beautiful ice ball candles from soy wax. Optionally, you can colour them and/or use fragrance. We chose a mango and a mint dessert candle.. 
  Important!  &quot;The Dangerous Imitations Directive prohibits the manufacture, importation and placing on the market of non-edible products that look like food.&quot; This includes candles. You are allowed to make them for private use though. 
  What you need:  
 
  Soywax C-3  
  Candle Color Yellow  
  Fragrance Mango Blossom  
  Candle color Green  
  fragrance Liptus Mint  
  BWR wick  
 
 Also: water bath, hot air dryer, needle, transparent/frosted candle glass 
 1. Melting 
 Heat the soy wax C3 to a temperature of 70 to max. 90 °C. When melting, stir regularly, but not too vigorously/quickly. This works best in a water bath. While the wax is melting, fix the wick with adhesive wax plates and centre it with a wick holder.. 
 2. Add colour and/or fragrance 
 If desired, melt the colour (0.1 - 0.2 %) or fragrance (max. 6%) completely in the liquid wax at approx. 80°C and stir. Important: Always colour the wax first before adding fragrance. When colouring, a little trial and error is necessary to achieve the desired colour result. The colour becomes less intense as the wax cools down. By the way, our wax colours are also very suitable for mixing! We used our candle colour yellow with our Mango Blossom fragrance and our colour green with the fragrance Liptus Mint. 
 3. Pouring the base 
 Let the wax cool down to about 50°C and meanwhile preheat the jars (e.g. with the hot air blower or simply on the heater). Then slowly pour the soy wax into the jars about 3/4 (depending on which jars you are using). 
 4. Eiskugeln vorbereiten 
 Let the wax cool down to about 50°C and meanwhile preheat the jars (e.g. with the hot air blower or simply on the heater). Then slowly pour the soy wax into the jars about 3/4 (depending on which jars you are using). 
 5. Prepare the Ice cream scoops 
 When the wax mixture has reached the right consistency, form balls with the ice cream scoop. The right consistency is reached when the tip of the wax remains stable when you take out the whisk and turn it over (again, similar to cream, but a little firmer). Place the wax ice cream balls on a silicone mat or baking paper to harden. The bowl &amp;amp; portioner can be cleaned with a heat gun and kitchen paper. Please also clean thoroughly (preferably in the dishwasher) before coming into contact with food again. 
 6. Assemble the Candle 
 When the wax in the glass and the ice balls have cooled down, you can assemble the candle. Carefully poke a hole through the ice ball with a hot needle. Then melt the surface of the glass candle with a hot air blower, thread the ball onto the wick and press it firmly. You can melt a little more so that the ice ball sinks a little into the coloured wax. 
 7. Give away or light 
 It&#039;s super easy to make someone else happy with your homemade candles, or you can light them for yourself for your own enjoyment. 
 Videotutorial will follow shortly! 
 We want to see your creations! 
 Take a picture/video and tag us on Instagram or TikTok&amp;nbsp; @distrebution_gmbh . If you have any questions, please don&#039;t hesitate to contact us by email&amp;nbsp; support@distrebution.com ! 
                ]]>
            </content>

                            <updated>2023-07-13T11:15:00+02:00</updated>
                    </entry>

    
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